Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Milan - Italy
Arguably one of Europe's – if not the world's – most style-conscious cities, Milan is no place to visit unless your pockets are deep. Indeed, walk a few blocks north of Piazza della Scalla, and you'll find yourself in the heart of one of the world's most prolific shopping districts, where storefronts bear the names of such fashion icons as Armani, Prada, Versace, and Gianfranco Ferré. While Via Monte Napoleone and Via della Spiga may be 'troppo costoso,' great deals on everything from antiques to last season's designs may be found in Milan's many public markets, places like Mercato Papiniano, Via Armorori, and Via Fiori Chiari. However, Milan is not all about shopping, and first-time visitors to the ancient city will find enough things to do for a whole summer, let alone a week. The Renaissance city, founded in the 7th century BC, has been conquered and ruled by scores of invaders, from Gauls and Franks to Celts and Hapsburgs. As a result, the Milanese had to rebuild the city on three different occasions – 1944 was the last time – and much original architecture has been replaced by modern edifices. However, scores of gems are still to be found, including the Basilica di Sant Ambrogio, constructed in the Lombard Romanesque design and containing a breathtaking 9th century altar cast in precious metals; Doumo, Italy's largest Gothic cathedral, consecrated in 1577 but not completed until the waning years of the 19th century; Cenacolo Vinciano, a convent wherein Leonardo da Vinci labored over his powerful "Last Supper"; Castello Sforzesco, a once-proud military stronghold whose defenses were designed by the versatile da Vinci and which now houses a treasure trove of Milanese antiques and artwork by Titian, Van Dyck, Tiepolo, and Michelangelo; and the Teatro alla Scallo (1778), perhaps the world's most famous theater, and its adjoining museum, which celebrates the likes of Verdi, Arturo, Toscanini, and Maria Callas. Gastronomy, too, is an art form to be taken seriously in Milan, which boasts a proud culinary reputation and countless sidewalk cafés dotting its busy streets. The city's oldest restaurant, Boeucc Antico Ristorante on Piazza Belgioso, has been open since the 17th century and continues to impress. Some twenty miles outside of the city, an 18th century country inn in Cassinetta di Lugagnano called Antica Osteria del Ponte enjoys the reputation of being one of Italy's, and perhaps Europe's, finest restaurants. Nighttime in Milan is no time to slow down – you have to go somewhere to show off new additions to your wardrobe, no? – and trendy bars and dance clubs lie in wait in Porto Genova and other chic neighborhoods. Of course, one night of opera at La Scalla is a must, although tickets are hard to come by. If you visit during festival time – Carnivale and Festa della Nivola are among the best – count yourself lucky, since few cities know how to throw a party like Milan.
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